Rehab: My Master Bedroom

Jennifer —  July 23, 2011 — 2 Comments

Last week I shared about my bedroom design and furniture mishaps.  Again the layout and design was the genious design layout from younghouselove.  It had to be tweaked to fit my space ( I used Ikea Billy bookcases for folded storage instead of actual wardrobes) but I have to give thankful props to them for helping me with my masterbedroom layout.  The crazy cool think about blog world is that someone in Virginia can help me in Missouri!  Love it.  Anyway, I had to figure out our bed situation.  After we sold our bedroom set for $260 we started looking for a bed.  I found many beds that I got excited about, but the problem was that they were out of my price range.  So, I decided to DIY a bed.  The blog world is saturated with headboard posts.  I read up and took notes but I  had to “moprh” them to fit my space because my space has some obstacles to overcome such as:

  • Space behind bed to open and shut curtains and shades
  • Tall headboard that would cover part of the window but I still wanted the option of opening the window.
  • I needed to be able to get a plug to an outlet behind my bed.
  •  I wanted to lead back against my headboard but with the above obstacles I had to get creative.
  •  I needed some space for lamps.  Since we don’t have night stands I had to get creative  I didn’t want to hardwire
    anything.

Since I didn’t have a plan last time I decided to have a  plan I sat down and wrote out what I wanted.  This is what I do in brainstorming.

  • I wanted a layered look.  I love bed with lots of pillows.  I know it’s not practical but I am practical in all other areas of my life.  I just love “plopping” down on a bed with lots of pillows.
  • I wanted a tall upholstered headboard.  I wanted to be able to open the window behind the bed but I wanted the headboard to be a lot taller.
  • I wanted a place for bedside lights.
  • I wanted the bed to be low enough so it still made my room bigger but high enough to store things underneath.

Here is how my bed turned out:

Here was my material list:

  • One queen sized metal bed frame:  I got mine at a MCHH for $20.00
  • A Thick (at least ¾ inch) piece of plywood cut down to  a 60”X48” piece: $11.00
  • A drill with a medium-sized drill  bit and screw driver drill bit.
  • Three yards of upholstery  fabric  ( I found some $21.00/yard  peacock-blue velvet fabric on clearance for$4.00/yd at Hobby Lobby. )Total:  $12.00
  • I used an old egg crate piece of  foam that I had for my old twin bed.  You  can find these for $9.00 for a queen size at Target and double it up.  I did this for my guest bedroom bed.  It’s a lot cheaper than buying foam at a  craft store.
  • Durable String  (We had this from a landscaping project the  Hubs did)
  • Three boxes of button kits from  Wal-Mart : $5.91
  • Upholstery needle from Wal-Mart $2.00
  • Batting – 1 Large Roll $8.00
  • Staple Gun – The Hubs and I have a  pneumatic Staple Gun with ½ inch staples ( The ½ inch staples are important
    when you buy a ¾ inch thick board because you don’t want them to be sticking  out the other side where you will be leaning against.)
  • Six 12 foot-2X4s cut in half for  the bed slats ($15.00)  We didn’t have a box spring so we built bed  slats instead of spending $300 for a box spring.
  • Two 8ft 2X6 boards.  One cut to the size of the  length between the metal cross beams on the bed frame (this serves as a middle  support for the bed slats because my metal frame did not have a middle support.  The other for the back of my headboard.  (this is completely optional.  After you read the instructions you might not need this) $10.0o
  • Extra Scraps of fabric (anything  will work)
  • A Long Stick  ( I used a Kabob Skewer)
  • Duck Tape
  • Scissors
  • Nut and Bold Set: $5.00
  • Screws
  • Ribbon
  • Electric Knife (this is optional  but if you can get your electric turkey cutter it cuts foam like “butta”)

I used what I had for the most  part.  In bold above is what I spent a  total of: $75.00

I know I had said in this post  that it was under $60.00.  I was just counting the headboard but if you  add in the bed slats the total comes to $85.00

Here is How I did This:

  1. I decided that I wanted three row of buttons and I measured  out and marked out on the board where the buttons  would be placed.
  2. I drilled holes in the board for the buttons.  (I didn’t want the buttons to  “sink in” the headboard.  I instead wanted  what I like to call a “dented tufting”)  To achieve the “dented tufting” I did not  drill holes in the foam. (p.s. “dented tufting is a term that I made up to  describe this.  The buttons are not  submerged but they are pulled tightly to get a little dent)  If you are going for the “sunken in” look.  Then glue on the foam first and then drill the holes through the board and the
    foam.
  3. I cut the foam with the electric knife. I put my bed  together first and placed my mattress on top to see how high my bed sat.  This is important because this determined the  dimensions of how I cut the foam.  A  queen bed is 60” wide so I knew that dimension.  My plywood piece was 48” tall and my bed , bed slats and mattress were 20  inches high.  The foam needed to be 28”X60” (48-20=28) and that would make up upholstered part of the headboard.
  4. I glued the foam, egg  crate side down (so the fabric does not have bumps) on the back of the  headboard with construction glue or spray adhesive.  Either will work.
  5. I placed the headboard flush against the wall and then set  up the bed frame.  All bed rails have a  place to attach to a headboard.  It’s a little  flat piece with slats where you can insert a bolt.  Mark where you should drill your holes for
    your bolt.  I used two bolts on each  side.  Drill the holes for the bolt with  a drill bit.  Make sure you know what  size bolt you want so you know what size hole to drill.  They don’t need to be long bolts but its  better if it’s a little fatter.
  6. I drilled two holes on both sides at the bottom of the piece  of plywood (the bottom part without foam, the part that will not be seen).  This is for wires for things that I had to  plug in.  Make sure the holes are big  enough for a plug to fit through. You may not need to do this, but I had to  because my only plug is behind my bed and the built-ins block side access to
    the plug.
  7. Cover the foam in batting and staple it to the back of the  plywood board.  Smooth the  batting over the edge of the bottom part of  the foam and onto the plywood.  Staple  close to edge of the foam.
  8. Cut the excess batting around the edges.
  9. Center the fabric over the foam and board.  It should cover the entire piece with  excess.  Staple starting at the middle of
    the bottom edge of the foam.  This  creates  a lip at the bottom of the “tufted”  part of the headboard for the mattress to fit snuggly under.  You can see the lip in this picture:
  10. Next staple the fabric starting at the top middle.  Pull the edges tight and don’t staple too close to the edge so it looks more finished. Now staple the sides starting with a corner fold at the  corner.
  11. Finish covering the bottom part of the headboard that is not  seen.  I did this because it makes the  bed look more “finished” from the sides.  If I was placing this headboard against I wall without a window or even  a wall with a centered window that is not so low…I would’ve made a headboard  that hung on the wall like this one.  I  didn’t have that luxury so I had to improvise.  You might not have that luxury, for whatever reason, too so I am hoping  this will help you.
  • Cut off the excess fabric on the back.  Since the back of my headboard was not going to be seen,  I didn’t worry about upholstering it.  I like a finished look (not stapled fabric seen) so I took  duck tape and bordered the back where the fabric
    was stapled.  Again, this was going above  and beyond to make it look clean and finished from the front.  I also did it to protect the fabric from spraying.
  • I covered the buttons  with some of the fabric leftover from upholstery.  Cover them as the package directions
    suggest.  I placed a dab of super glue  before I closed the button cover for extra durability.
  • Now its time to “tuft” the headboard.   String your large upholstery needle and feed  it through the hole you drilled in the back of the headboard.
  • String the Button and pull it back through.  This step sounds easier than it looks.  It is sometime hard to find the hole coming  back through.  I had some wooden Kabob  Skewers for the grill and it would help if I poked it through the back hole and  gently pressed into the front to see where to put my needle.  I would insert the needle at that point and
    use the skewer to give direction on where to guide the needle back through the   hole.  Do this a couple of times and pull
    tightly….but not too tight.
  • To secure the string when you are done sewing roll up a  piece of fabric (scrap).  Make sure it is  bigger than the hole you drilled out so it wont go through.  Put your fabric role on top the hole and tie  your string securely around it, knot it to secure it.  This should be enough but if you want to  staple the ends of the fabric roll down to the back of the headboard it would  make it more secure.
  • Feel with your fingers and find the holes that you have  drilled at the bottom of the head board.  Cut the fabric around those holes.
  • Insert the bolts into the holes in the back of the  headboard.
  • Set up the bed rails and line them up with the bolts.  (on mine, when I pushed the bed frame against the  headboard the bolts went through the slats on the bed frame. Secure the bolt with a nut that is tightened securely against the bed frame headboard attachment piece. (we bought our mattress a week after building this bed.  It was longer than the bed frame so I had to go back in add a wood block to help extend the bed frame a little. If you want to know how..comment and I will tell ya. On our guest bedroom headboard we did the bolt system and it works.  I guess all bed frames are a little different)
  • Stand back and enjoy your work!

Here is a couple of other things that I did:

  • I knew that I would put a roman shade and curtains behind my  bed so I wanted access to open and shut them. My headboard was also a little taller than where the window opens so I  didn’t want to rest it against the wall because I couldn’t accomplish what I  wanted to accomplish or open the window. I also needed the headboard to be  sturdy because we like to read in bed and we would lean on the headboard.  I figured I needed 6 inches of space back  there.  I bought three pieces of 2X6 in my  wood pile so I cut the pieced down to 3.5 feet tall and I L-Bracketed the 2  inch side of one piece to the back of the head board in the center.  I made sure it was flush with the floor.  I did the same for two other pieces. And made
    sure they were centered between the end of the headboard and the middle piece.  I pushed up against the wall and
    yippee!!!!  It worked!  Here is a diagram to help you understand what I did:

Here is what it accomplished:

The headboard was against the wall and sturdy. Since the headboard was 4 feet tall, and the 2X6s were 42  inches tall (3.5ft) I had room for curtains to hang neatly behind the  headboard. I also had 6 inches  to figure out something for bed lights.  Finally, I had room to open and close the window and the blinds!

The hubs and I bought a new mattress.  Can I tell you that it has been the best  rehab purchase ever.  I see it as more as
a rehab for my body!  I didn’t want a box  spring because not only do you pay $300 for a wood box, it also would make the
bed two high and negate my taller headboard.  I had bought some bed slats from Ikea and I was determined that I could
make them.  Here is what I did:

  • I cut 6 12 ft. 2X4s in half and laid them across the bed frame where the box spring would have set.
  • I thought I needed a little bit more security in the middle  so I took the bed slats off and screwed in a 2X6 down the middle.  There were holes in the metal that spanned  across the bed frame so I just screwed a screw through the hole and into the
    wood. 
  • I placed the slats back down and took some ribbon and  secured them together so they wouldn’t move.

Here is what it looks like:

P.S. I am not a great picture taker…I am learning.  Sorry this photo looks a little crooked.  Anyway, I bought a white bed skirt from Wal-Mart and cut it to  size.  I used Heat-N-Bond to hem it.  I put the mattress on and for $20.00 I got a  lower bed and it does the trick the same as a $300 box spring.

Where there is a will, there is a way.  I am reminded of this as I write this post.  I wanted to DIY a headboard for my room but all the headboard tutorials out in blogoshpere didn’t seem to work with my space and what I wanted.  I hope this encourages you to not give up…just improvise.  If you see something you like, read how they did it.  If it works for your space then do it.  If not, put your thinking cap on and figure out how you can make it work!

Thanks for reading,

Jennifer

P.S….I have updated my master bedroom.  Check it Out here.

 

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2 responses to Rehab: My Master Bedroom

  1. This was super helpful! I need to make slats for my bedframe because my box spring doesn’t fit up the stairs and wasn’t sure how to do it cheaply!!! Nice job!!

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