I had hoped that the hubs could write this post today but I didn’t realize he had such a jam packed day! So I am sad to say that its just me again! I am excited to share with you the final post on our big Garage Rehab. If you have missed out on our other posts then please check them out here:
Just for old-time sake…here is the before pic of the garage. It is not at its worst so you can imagine how bad it was before.
Finally, Here is the main wall of the garage after our big rehab:
For some reason I can’t explain I couldn’t get a close up pic of all of it so here is what is on the other side of the cabinet.
The storage consists of ceiling cabinets that the hubs built, old school lockers I found last weekend, and a wall span of peg board hooks. Lets get down to business in explaining the ceiling storage. I think the hubs did a fabulous job. We got this idea from the house that we flipped. The garage was the only thing we didn’t have to rehab and we loved the storage because you could walk under it and it wouldn’t hinder space for your car. We had planned to put doors on them but we decided against them. We like being able to see what is up there and not have to deal with a door when we are trying to get something out. Here is a closer look:
This is where we store tools and bigger items that we don’t use on a regular basis. We have a miter saw, wet saw and nail guns stored up here along with drill cases and other equipment. Underneath, we have organized the things we use on a regular basis on the peg board. The peg boards where there upon move in,so a few years ago we just went to Lowes and got a variety of peg board hooks. All of these things we use more often so we hung them in a way that we could see where they are quickly, and more importantly, put them back easily.
The school lockers were a great find. I went to garage sells last Friday with my best friend and boss (who happens to be the boss of both of us) We went to help her find some dining room chairs to rehab. Both of us had no intention on purchasing anything. At the end of the day my boss bought a motorized scooter and I bought these lockers!
I found them at the Mountain County Homes of Hope Warehouse Store
. It is like a good garage sale everyday! They were $25.oo. I was going to buy some plastic shelves, but they were a little bulky and not as clean-looking as these. I can store lots of stuff and then close the door. In here we store our dog food, trash bags, gardening clothes, tarps, and wet/dry umbrellas.
I have always wanted to rehab some lockers to put in a little kids room or even a mudroom. If my life transitions that way then I will clean them up a little more, slap a fresh coat of paint on them and move them inside. I like to buy rehabs that can transition. There it is, if you don’t want to know how we made the ceiling cabinets you can move onto the next place in your web/blog surfing adventure. The last part of this post will be the cost break down and the “How To”. Before you go, I want you to know that this garage rehab has been good for the soul! I will leave you with the full reveal shot. We will call this the “Neighbor View”. I hope their eyes can rest easier when we have the garage door open and maybe we will start “rehabbing” our reputation from being the “junky garage neighbors” to the “neighbors who maximize their garage space .”
- Craigslist cabinets and paint: Free**
- Supplies and chalkboard paint for cabinets $20.00
- Sports Storage, Lowes: $70.00 with tax.
- Brackets for wood pile and trimmer: $6 for two
- Lockers: $25.00 at MCHH
- Peg Board Hook Kit, Lowes: $15.00**
- Wood for shelves in nook: $20.00**
- Cleaning supplies storage, Wal-Mart $3.00**
- Wood and Supplies for Cabinets: $85.00
**These projects were done two years earlier
Total for the entire project: $235
Please note that we really only went $27.00 over the budget we set last month for this project. $58.00 was spent a few years ago, and I couldn’t resist the $25.00 lockers. Take those costs out we spent $152. Our budget we set a few weeks ago was $150.00. So, not bad.
Okay for those who want the “How to”, let me first explain this is how we did this. There are probably many ways to do this but this is what worked for us. Our goal was a cabinet 20inch depth that was super sturdy, especially because our cars were going to be parked underneath. Here is what you will need to make this happen:
- 5-6 2X4s depending on the size you want your cabinets to be.
- 6-7 Sheets of cheap plywood for cabinet fronts and bottom.
- 3 inch wood screws.
- 4-5 Medium Sized L-Brackets
- 3-4 Large L-brackets
- Wood Glue
- Chalk Line for leveling
- Stud Finder (Some people can do it just by knocking on the wall and hearing the hollowness behind the wall)
Clear the area
Determine your dimensions. We were dealing with a light fixture in the way and we wanted to be able to walk underneath them. Ours are 22.5 inches tall and 22.5 inches deep. The entire cabinet spans 9 ft wide. Once you have determined your space then figure out the amount of wood you need and buy it. If you don’t have saws at home them you will have to know your dimensions exactly so that Lowes and Home Depot can cut the wood for you.
At the edges where you want your cabinets to end measure four inches down. Use your chalk Snap to make a line. If you don’t know how to do that this
is a great tutorial. Use this line to line up where your top 2X4s go.
Find your wall studs then find your Ceiling studs. When you find them mark them with painters tape.
Screw in a 2X4 horizontally (ours was 9 ft)on the wall the width of the cabinets at the top. And then screw in the beams that are vertical on the wall right on the studs. Ours were 16 inches tall
Screw in the ceiling beams right on the ceiling studs (see above pic) These beams were also 16 inches for ours.
Line up the 4 inch side of a 2X4 with the bottom of the vertical wall beams. Wood Glue and screw into the bottom of the vertical beams.
Line up the four-inch side of a 2X4 with the exposed edges of the ceiling beams. The 2 inch side should be touching the ceiling. Wood glue and screw it into the ends of the ceiling beams.
Now you are going to work on the front of your cabinet. These 2x4s don’t need to line up with the vertical beams on the studs. These are the edges of your doors/openings so spread them part. They do however, need to be the same length as the vertical beams on the wall (ours were 16 inches). Wood glue the edge of each vertical beam into the bottom of the front vertical 2X4. Screw into the top beam at an angle.
Now wood glue and screw the 4 inch side of a 9ft horizontal 2X4 to the bottom of the front vertical beams. Line up the 2 inch edge to be flush with the front horizontal beam. You now have part one of the bottom of the cabinet front. The two bottom 2X4s are screwed in on the wider side to create a lip fora more sturdy plywood bottom to you cabinets.
stabilize the cabinets where you see fit with your medium-sized L-Brackets.
For more stability, screw in 2×4 beams to the bottom of the cabinet. Ours were 20 inches and they spanned across the bottom and were screwed into the bottom of the two horizontal bottom 2X4s. You can see them in the pic below.
Measure your plywood for the inside of the cabinet bottom. It will rest on the lip you created with the horizontal 2X4s. Screw it in.
Measure your plywood for the sides and screw it in. (My advice is if Lowes or HD is doing the cutting save cutting these pieces until after you have your cabinet skeleton up)
Measure you plywood for the facing of the cabinets. We did two long horizontal pieces and four vertical pieces. Screw or nail gun it in.
For extra stability the hubs put a bottom layer of plywood on the bottom beams. Now there should be no 2X4s exposed on the outside
For extra stability screw in your large L-Brackets under the bottom of the cabinet.
You are done! I hope this helps. Thanks for reading.